* uN NOUvEAU iDEAL by fILEP mOTWARY

Dear iDEALS, I could not resist from p0sting this photograph made by my friend Rene Habermacher and his collaborator Yiannis Tsipoulanis. I just love Eva here. At last she looks human.

Dear iDEALS, Nikoline Liv Andersen is Dannish. She has studied fashion at Danmarks Designskole and drawing/design at Design at Akademiet for Tegning og Design, Pattern Cutting at Cool Couture and had an internship at the House of John Galliano in Paris, like myself. She is also a great illustrator and her work can be seen on www.wireimage.com and  www.denmarkfashion.com. Although we have never met in Person we have many common friends who share the same opinion I have for Nikoline: Her work is a reflection of the future. Don’t you agree? Let’s move forward and read what she told me ABOUT her collection for FALL/WINTER 2007-2008FilepMotwary:What would be the iDEAL environment for you to work in? Describe to us the Nikoline moments of solitude… NikolineLivAndersen: My working table is very important. I work the best when I’m surrounded by a lot of colors, pictures, textile samples, dolls and music. A space there is far from reality. I also love to have people around me because we can inspire each other and have fun while working. It’s important to remember to sing, laugh and dance frequently.FilepMotwary:Are you close with other designers in Denmark? Do you trust people of the same profession being close to you concerning the competitive world we live in? NikolineLivAndersen:I believe that it is important not to see all other designers as competitors. Many of my friends are creative people in different ways and we use each other to discuss our ideasFilepMotwary:Is it hard for a designer living and working in Copenhagen? NikolineLivAndersen:Copenhagen is a creative city and there are good possibilities for educations. But Denmark is also a small country and people as I see it is scared to dress up too funny. That’s one of the reasons that I also want to work abroad. I want to change peoples idea of what you are able to wear.FilepMotwary: How do you think you can push your work becoming known to the rest of the world? NikolineLivAndersen: Be myself.Most young designers including both of us started off working as interns in big fashion houses. How did your collaboration with Galliano help you and how do you see this phenomenon of talented people preferring to be next to someone big (or work for someone big) instead of starting their own brand from the beginning?  It is always a good idea to get experience from others before starting your own brand. And it is also inspiring for all parts. It was very rewarding to work for Galliano. I was in clover working a place where everything was made by hand and rarely by a computer. Furthermore it confirmed me in the reason of working without compromises always seeking the magical moment where design and art meets.  I would love to work for other interesting fashion housesFilepMotwary:Name the difficulties you come across as a designer. Where do you see yourself in ten years concerning the circumstances? NikolineLivAndersen:The biggest problem with everything, not only for me as a designer but for everybody and for all parts of life, is the too big importance of money and when grown-ups go boring. Unfortunately there is a strong link between these two factors and is seen quite often. I want to live in the moment where every step of the way is important. In ten years I will do the same. It is my ambition that my clothes and art will always be strong, inspiring and fascinating to others. I want to touch people with my clothes.Filep Motwary:I know this might seem like a boring question for you to answer and for the readers to read, but, did you always want to be a designer? NikolineLivAndersen: I’ve always known that I wanted to work creatively. Since I was a little girl I’ve loved dressing up funny. Looking like a clown the one day and like a funny old lady the other.  I have a fascination for odd old lady for instance the Danish actress called Anne Marie Helger and off cause Anna Piaggi. I love when people are not afraid of experimenting and going crazy with their clothes and styling. When I get old I want be as cool as them.I’ve always painted a lot and wanted to be an artist. In high school I found out that I wanted to work with fashion – in a way like an artist work with his paintings.FilepMotwary: How does your work reflect to your origins? NikolineLivAndersen: My family has always been very supportive. My Father is an Architect and he has always taught me to go for my dreams and never give up. But I’m also rebellious and I guess because he loves functionalism and minimalism I always go for the opposite as long as it’s aesthetic and has a strong expression. I’m a dreamer and certainly not very practical. I don’t think it’s very Danish.FilepMotwary:Your clothes reflect a tragic romanticism. What’s hidden behind the approach you give while working on something? NikolineLivAndersen:My collection describes a dream of a childish world with eternal time to play in conflict with the busy and claustrophobic adult reality. I’m inspired by infantility in modern literature, for instance “Momo” by Michael Ende, where real values are only visible if you slow down, enjoy and reflect. The child is the knowing person. I’m always fascinated of telling a story with my clothes, styling, music and setting. I try to work aesthetic with sometimes harsh and thought-provoking subjects.FilepMotwary:Your next projects? NikolineLivAndersen: Right now I’m working on a blue fox project for Saga Furs there is going to be shown at Mi Fur in Milan in March. Further more am I participating in different kinds of events around Europe this Year and collaborates with photographers and illustrators to make new and interesting pictures. I am also going to make a big exhibition in Copenhagen, Øksnehallen, in the next year. You are all invited.

Photos by JACOB LANGVAD NOTE: THE copyrights of this interview belong to Un Nouveau iDEAL by Filep Motwary.

 

Dear iDEALS, a few months ago, a lady by the name of KRASI GENOVA contacted me from Bulgaria and expressed the wish to do an interview of myself about my life in Greece. Although I answered her questions and sent the material requested, I had totally forgot about it. This morning while checking my post mail, I received an A4 sized envelope with EDNO magazine hidden inside. On the cover the well known choreographer Constandinos Rigos is holding the Greek Flag. Unfortunately I don't read/speak Bulgarian which means I cannot enjoy the articles written about the city I live in. I feel honored though for being chosen by Krasi. Thank you so much.Now I know how to spell my name in your language.

Dear iDEALS, today I present two friends from my past, Miss Ines Aguilar Gómez and Iván Martínez Alted aka CASITA de Wendy. We first met three years ago when we were cosen by ABSOLUT VODKA to represent our countries and participated in a new at the time Project, entitled ABSOLUT COUNTRY. The briefing was held in Ámsterdam we all stayed at the same hotel among, Yazbukey, Charles Anastase, Andrian Appiolazza (assi. Designer at Chloe), Marek Adamski….The first thing I did when I checked in was to ask for the names of the designers list and their room numbers. The first people I called were Inez and Yvan and without knowing each other, we ended up having a fun conversation in an odd restaurant. After I saw some images from their new A/W 2007/08 collection, I decided to give them a call and see how they are doing. They accepted an interview, for Un nouVeau iDEAL FilepMotwary: It’s been three years since we last met…What changed during all this time, work wise and personally? CASITAdeWENDY: Yes, it was three years ago since we met and we have grown up, got older and that short of stuff Our company is also getting older and bigger. We´ve started new collections and by now we are doing a second line of jersey called la Casita de Wendy Happy, a notebooks collection (the 2007 collection will be the third notebook collection), a bags and belts collection and  a underwear collection. FILEPmoTWARY: There is collaboration with Spain’s legendary SYBILLA. How did it actually happen and what is it about? CASITAdEwENDY: Yes there is, Inés has been working with her for three years. At the beginning she was her designer assistant  and later she became the designer of the Sybilla Japan and Jocomomola by Sybilla which is her second line. FILEPmOTWARY: Both of you studied something completely outside fashion. How did you change your minds, why? CasitaDeWendy: Yes, it´s true, Inés studied Architecture and Iván studied philosophy and then we met and we realised that fashion was something that we were interested so much that we decided to give it  a try. Then Bjork liked some of our stuff and in that moment we understood that we had to become fashion designers. FilepMotwary:How is Spain’s fashion scene at the moment? Where does it stand compared to Paris or Milan? Do you feel secure in your city? LaCasitaDeWendy: The Spain’s fashion scene is a little bit dead: There are a few young designers doing their own stuff but Spain it´s not the right place for young talents. We teach at IED in Madrid and we encourage them to move to Paris or London to show their work and make business. Madrid is ok: good weather, nice people, cool places, amusing during the night, it’s a good place for living and working but not so good for doing business. FilepMotwary: What would be ideal for CASITA DE WENDY in the following five years? Where do you want to be? CasiTAdEwENDY: We don’t know, maybe it will be fine if we could live by ourselves for the next years working in our company and doing the things we like to do. FILEPmOTWARY: In your opinion, what does fashion really needs this moment? We think that fashion has to calm down a bit and show to people it’s true face. CASITAdeWENDY:Fashion, reveals only her glamorous picture and that’s only the one side of it all. It will be important to show people that fashion is a business with their buyers, clients, fans, “laws”, and also fun!. FILEPMOtwaRY: Your work has many of your friends involved. Is this correct? CasitaDeWendy:Yes, we love our friends. They put things in their own place. Many of them don’t work in fashion and that help us to switch off. FILEPmoTWARY: Another thing that surprises me is that 99% of your look-books show real-everyday people rather than models wearing the outfits. Could you analyze this philosophy? CASITAdEwENDY: Yeah, we try to do real things, for real a person, that’s why we loved to use real girls in our pictures.  Then we started working with Ramiro E, our photographer and he also saw things the same way, we wanted beautiful real people instead of models. Ramiro E tried to find beauty in everyday girls, and we loved that. FilepMotwary: What’s the message of your new collection for FALL WINTER 2007/08? Where was your research focused? CasitaDE WenDY: We´ve been working on a tale by Hans Christian Andersen called Snow Queen and we’ve tried to show in our collection its magic, beauty, whiteness and darkness.  fILEPMOtwary: Is there a message you would like to say? CASITAdeWENDY: We don’t know, maybe just enjoy yourself and believe in magic.  Visit CASITAdeWENDY here NOTE: The copyrights of this interview belong to FILEP MOTWARY. All rights reserved

Dear iDEALS, I will be in Paris on the 28th of February until the 5th of March for some personal business and also to report on the Parisian Fashion Shows. Today, during a conversation with Jean Charles de Castelbajac, he allowed me to report backstage/frontstage on the day of his show and also he accepted an interview. He is one of the most polite people in the business. This image shows legendary Anna Piaggi wearing one of his creations.

Dear iDEALS, I continue presenting the Collections for S/S 2007 as they were presented during the Fashion Week in October 2006, here in Athens. Today, I am showing Christos Costarellos. Please find some time to read his press release: “My precious: Christos Costarellos sends on stage a chic, though easy wear couture, that is both refined and alternative.Inspired by the ladylike elegance of the 50’s updating it with the verve of the 80’s,  he creates a modern attire full of sweetness and class, aiming at a woman who opts for a style that highlights her femininity by means of leather, silk satin, embroidery and silk muslin. The original geometric lines are enhanced by a palette of white, metal grey, powder pink, spring green and yellow. Blending airy charm and romantic purity he ends up in a luxurious and elegantly feminine look.”

Dear iDEALS, yesterday (among others) was the opening of a very interesting exhibition organised by TEAMSTRUT at the offices they share among MOTHER magazine (which is determined to overshadow the rest) in Athens. Among the people who showed their work is my friend ROBERTA NITSOS, who I previously presented here on Un nouVeau iDEAL a few months ago. Roberta studied photography at the London College of Printing and scenography at Central Saint Martins. For the past twelve years she lives between Athens and London and her works have been presented in several important pages .Names included: THE SUNDAY TIMES, THE GUARDIAN, SLEAZE NATION, COMMONS AND SENSE, ZOO, SUPERBLOW...I firstly came across her photographs while I was staying in Paris, when I bought a book from Colette, entitled Romantik. For the upcoming BENAKI'S exhibition "PAPER CUTS" she has collaborated with the curator Vassilis Zidianakis for the catalogue. She is someone to keep an eye at. Roberta I love your work! Unfortunately , I could not attend the opening yesterday because , while walking on the streets of my neighbourhood I came across my friend Renee Habermacher and Thanos. We started a converation on films and the new Christian Dior COUTURE show and naturally got carried away by Galliano's magic garments and pattern skills plus the most suitable presentation for a couture show. We are both certain that if Dior himself was alive, he would be something more than proud.These are some stills from the video I liked the most. I couldnt hesitate clicking my camera...Now here is Roberta's photographs..Aren't they beautiful?I don't know why Italian Vogue doesn't hire her to do a Couture story. Enough of that Italian Photographer, you know who I'm talking about.

PRESS RELEASE

"Manolis Baboussis’ photographic work goes back to the 70s and has its origins in audiovisual performances carried out in the premises of various institutions and asylums. Originally, his work would take the form of slides, projected on the wall and accompanied by the sound of the respective performances. As such it heralded the artist’s work in later years: the photographic tableau that seemed to provide him with an incentive for considering space and architecture as two realities that are decidedly irreconcilable with the human condition.  In his current exhibition, Baboussis presents large scale photographic works (172 x 172 cm) and a two-screen video projection featuring color photographs and sound, titled “crisis”.   These various spaces of crisis – a state from which no institution seems to be exempt, including that supreme political institution that is the Parliament – are the subject of an original investigation with which the artist has long been preoccupied; one involving a search for the aesthetic and symbolic aspects of space and of man’s place in it. It is an element that seems to be present throughout Baboussis’ work, from its very beginnings to these most recent works, in which the artist articulates a new sociopolitical dimension of his problematic regarding his particular relationship to photography by means of the absence or presence of the human figure in the pattern by whichspaceisarranged.At the same time, he juxtaposes his photographic tableaux, causing them to intersect and enter into a dialectic relationship with one another, which has little to do with a sense of affinity between the works in terms of their theme or date of creation. What he in fact accomplishes in this way is to generate a short-circuit-like effect in terms of the various associations generated and to thus help create new meaning.  Baboussis traces the way in which homogeneity accumulates and is being arranged and transforms his own relationship to space into images of contemplation and reflection. He imparts to the entities depicted the quality of a conscious and informed experience, in spite of general opinion that might deem this commonplace or void of any real interest; in fact, he does so to such an extent that, occasionally, what would otherwise remain hidden and pending in some dark corner of possibility, in an unfulfilled state of anticipation – in the absence that is of the photographic act – is now made real by means of the artist’s imagination. Photography thus highlights the concept, the process of thought rather than any seemingly objective reality. The exhibition is accompanied by a catalogue published by futura publications. Its title is Possessions from the artist’s recent exhibition at the Centro Arte Moderna e Contemporanea della Spezia and it features six sections bearing respective titles: fields, performances, attitudes, management, secrets, anticipation, crisis. Texts have been contributed by Bruno Corà, Denis Zacharopoulos and Manolis Baboussis himself." Dear iDEALS, it is worth visiting this exhibition at my favorite Gallery in Athens. For more click on ILEANA TOUNTA

Dear iDEALS, I will continue to present the collections of Greek Designers as presented during the Hellenic Fashion week. Today, here is SIMEONI, some images and his press release. "The SIMEONI Collection for the spring-summer 2007 sends women to an enchanted journey to exotic destinations. This is one "Cruise Collection" that every cosmopolitan woman that respects her fame should have.All the Collection for the spring-summer 2007 is based on  a palette of intense and flamboyant summer colors. They are given through floral designs combined with peculiar animal and floral prints. Turquoise, vivid fuchsia, yellow, parrot like green, orange, pink, light blue and red combine and mix in a surreal embracing of the female figure. As it is summer that most exposes the body, the fabrics surrounding it should be as friendly and natural as possible. That is the reason that Simeoni chooses the silk version of all fabrics. So mouselins, satins and jerseys caresses the body giving the woman in them ethereal movement.Pleats, bindings and folding "grow» in the corsage while wide belts tighten the waist. In the rest of the body, diagonal cuts of the fabrics create rich godes to the skirts. Hot scorches, intense necklines and impressive naked backs characterize all the collection. With this collection Simeoni wants to give to women a chance to feel more feminine, more graceful and he achieves that with such a .......exotica collection!! Simeoni"