INTERVIEW: GASPARD YURKIEVICH talks to FILEP MOTWARY
Dear iDEALS, today I am presenting one of the few designers who manage to make me feel happy for choosing fashion as my proffession.
Gaspard Yurkievich was born in Paris in 1972. After his studies at Studio Berçot, he won the Festival d’Hyères in 1997 and launched his first prêt-a-porter women’s collection in 1998. Since then, his shows have been an innovative launch pad that illustrate his sexy, contemporary and urban visions. Gaspard has called on numerous artists to help bring together his creative endeavors. He has worked with such talents as the architect Didier Faustino, artist Edouard Leve, actress Elodie Bouchez, taekwando champion Pascal Gentil, The Crazy Horse Saloon, musician Matthew Herbert. In July 2002, “Les soirées nomades de la Fondation Cartier” invited him to present “Aurore Overnight,” a fantastical girl band created exclusively for this special evening. It was set to music by singer and musician Dani Siciliano, who since then has done live performances of the exclusive and original soundtracks from the Gaspard Yurkievich runway shows. Gaspard launched the men’s prêt-a-porter and shoe collections in 2003. This was followed in 2005 by an accessories line and the opening of his first boutique, located in Paris. The brand is sold in 100 boutiques worldwide such as Le Bon Marche, Concrete London, Ships Tokyo, Kron Kron, Jumelle New York… Since the beginning of his design career, Gaspard has undertaken co-branding projects and been solicited to collaborate with luxury brands such as DeBeers, Jaguar, and Van Cleef & Arpels. He has also worked with Toyota, L’Oreal, MAC Cosmetics, Evian, Eram, Etam, Galeries Lafayette, Monoprix…and more recently Pernod and France Arno. Thus, it is with an eye for both the mainstream and elitist movements in fashion that the French label of Gaspard Yurkievich has independently developed its distinct vision and global recognition in the worlds of fashion and luxury. 
FilepMotwary: There is a rumor saying that before you started your career as a designer, you spent some time working as a “press attaché” for a famous fashion house. Is this true? How did it help you later? What is the importance of a press office in the designer’s universe? GaspardYurkievich: This is not a rumor. After having assisting designer Jean Collona, I was very isolated in the stidio so I decided to work on the other side.Designer EROTOKRITOS had Isabelle Roques as his PR, he introduced me to her and I chose to work there. I used to be behind the promotion for designers such as VERONIQUE LEROY, ZUCCA; SERGIO ROSSI and many more . I learned to speak about the work of very different creators and now it is easier to speak about mine.Zucca asked me to think of creating a Parisian Design Studio for their brand but at the time I won the Festival D’Hyeres and decided to launch my own collection. There was no way for the Japanese to let me do both at the same time.
FilepMotwary:You are one of the few existing designers that have a very “feminine” way to see women and a rather “masculine” vision for the men you design. Can you separate in words, the woman and the man, the hero and heroine of Gaspard Yurkievich? GaspardYurkievich: No! The mood is the same for man or woman. I redefine the couture heritage and what is considered sexy. In a contemporary context, what is sexy for a girl is not the same for a boy. I love the man and woman. I am happy you ask this question because it’s true in a way that when we launch the men’s collection we try to make it look masculine, having the women’s collection as our vision. Definitely though “Ken and Barbie” are not what we have in mind.
FilepMotwary:What are your origins? GaspardYurkievch: Well it’s a big mixture. I was born in Paris, my parents were born in Argentina a place I visited only once in my life. My grandparents from my father’s side were Jewish immigrants from Poland. My grandparents from my mother’s side were Italian and French Basque Catholics, as well immigrants…I speak French and Spanish, I am not Jewish, not a Catholic, French or Argentinean but at the same time, I am all of the above! FilepMotwary:You have your own way of presenting your work. Also, you are not afraid to collaborate with different professionals in order to give a new edge every time you present your collection. What is the aim, in terms of “result”, working with different individuals that do not really belong in your studio team? GaspardYurkievich: Its “LA CERISE SUR LE GATEAU”. In general, I have the desire to work with this musician, artist, architect (most of them are my friends). It’s an extension of the emotion I try to express with my work in a ten minutes long fashion show, which in other terms would need a ten day lasting presentation. But this has to be a natural desire. It only happens at the right time and it’s so nice to share this feeling with other people.
FilepMotwary: Are you “strict” when magazines or stylists ask your clothes for their fashion stories? GaspardYurkievich: I have many lines and behind each there is a different target. I am more clever than strict and not stupidly snobbish. In collaboration with my IN-HOUSE PR, we try working and respecting everyone in the best way we can: a new area for my communication, starts internalizing the press.
FilepMotwary: There was a revival of the “waist” during the women SS 2008 collections. Why do you think the designers emphasized so much on the waist? I have a feeling that we will be seeing the trend quite a lot in the future, no? GaspardYurkievich : Yes, but it’s going very slowly. I already did it several times in my collections and although the press loves it, it proved to be a low sale trend. In my last show, there was a very short skirt with a very graphic construction. It’s all about femininity these days and the emphasis on the waist is such a sexy element.
FilepMotwary: Festival D’Hyeres is how your name became more known internationally back in the late 1990’s. Can you share you memories for the years you won the first prize and also how did it help you pushing your work forward? GaspardYurkievich : It was back in 1997. At the time Hyeres was more a national establishment than an International “RENOMEE”, yet very professional. Martine Sitbon, Marc Ascoli and Hussein Chalayan were in the Jury. There was nor international press but it helped me to gain the courage starting my own business with my brother and my boyfriend. I was only 25 years old. FilepMotwary: How important is Festival D’Hyeres or any other Festival that supports young designers today? GaspardYurkievich: Today, the FESTIVAL D’ HYERES gives a big visibility by the press, professional and financial back up. It is huge giving the young people the opportunity to show their work under high standard situations. I consider it a the best of it’s kind and very unique.
FilepMotwary: Do you think that fashion moves faster today than it did ten years before? GaspardYurkievich : Yes, come on!! There is the internet, it’s all more crazy and exciting. Young people are much less naïve. It’s sometimes a bit sad because accidental moments of grace have now become rarer but yet now everything is so accessible. What is also interesting is that one can show his work and express himself more easily than before. FilepMotwary: Who is the most influential person in your life and why? GaspardYurkievich : The artist/photographer and family friend BERNARD FAUCON; He is the most singular and free person I know. Also, Guido, my boyfriend, with whom my day life at the studio or at home, in a way feeds me working and making choices.
FilepMotwary: Now, a bit of nostalgia…How were you as a child. What are your memories? GaspardYurkievich : I am the youngest of three children with a big age difference. I was a very happy child, loved to sing and dance, drawing. I was never bored and but also a very curious kid. In our house there were books and paintings on the walls. My father was a poet and by the age of five, I was conscious enough to know my Jewish origins and who Louise Brooks was… 
FilepMotwary: Why did you choose fashion as your profession? GaspardYurkievich:I chose fashion because glamour helped me be a dreamer when I was a child. I had the Golden Hollywood era education at home. I created my own culture mixed with the Pop culture. But, I grew up in Paris, and Fashion is the myth of this city. It’s own fairytale.
FilepMotwary: Why do you think so many young people want to be involved in fashion these days? GaspardYurkievich:Because fashion is the first way to express yourself and the only way to rebellion. FilepMotwary: Your future plans? GaspardYurkievich: In 2008 I will focus on my e-shop, launching the men’s shoes collection, a co-branding bag LA BAGAGERIE called “BAGGY”. Also, I am celebrating my 10TH anniversary as a brand. At the same time I am preparing the set design and costumes for a concert which is a surprise and also a gallery exhibition in Paris, but it’s still under discussion. I’ll let you know
cLICK ON gASPARD.
A big THANK YOU to YOANN BERDAH for the wonderful images. Thank you Virginie Bergeron, PR at Gaspard Yurkievich.
Gaspard Yurkievich was born in Paris in 1972. After his studies at Studio Berçot, he won the Festival d’Hyères in 1997 and launched his first prêt-a-porter women’s collection in 1998. Since then, his shows have been an innovative launch pad that illustrate his sexy, contemporary and urban visions. Gaspard has called on numerous artists to help bring together his creative endeavors. He has worked with such talents as the architect Didier Faustino, artist Edouard Leve, actress Elodie Bouchez, taekwando champion Pascal Gentil, The Crazy Horse Saloon, musician Matthew Herbert. In July 2002, “Les soirées nomades de la Fondation Cartier” invited him to present “Aurore Overnight,” a fantastical girl band created exclusively for this special evening. It was set to music by singer and musician Dani Siciliano, who since then has done live performances of the exclusive and original soundtracks from the Gaspard Yurkievich runway shows. Gaspard launched the men’s prêt-a-porter and shoe collections in 2003. This was followed in 2005 by an accessories line and the opening of his first boutique, located in Paris. The brand is sold in 100 boutiques worldwide such as Le Bon Marche, Concrete London, Ships Tokyo, Kron Kron, Jumelle New York… Since the beginning of his design career, Gaspard has undertaken co-branding projects and been solicited to collaborate with luxury brands such as DeBeers, Jaguar, and Van Cleef & Arpels. He has also worked with Toyota, L’Oreal, MAC Cosmetics, Evian, Eram, Etam, Galeries Lafayette, Monoprix…and more recently Pernod and France Arno. Thus, it is with an eye for both the mainstream and elitist movements in fashion that the French label of Gaspard Yurkievich has independently developed its distinct vision and global recognition in the worlds of fashion and luxury. FilepMotwary: There is a rumor saying that before you started your career as a designer, you spent some time working as a “press attaché” for a famous fashion house. Is this true? How did it help you later? What is the importance of a press office in the designer’s universe? GaspardYurkievich: This is not a rumor. After having assisting designer Jean Collona, I was very isolated in the stidio so I decided to work on the other side.Designer EROTOKRITOS had Isabelle Roques as his PR, he introduced me to her and I chose to work there. I used to be behind the promotion for designers such as VERONIQUE LEROY, ZUCCA; SERGIO ROSSI and many more . I learned to speak about the work of very different creators and now it is easier to speak about mine.Zucca asked me to think of creating a Parisian Design Studio for their brand but at the time I won the Festival D’Hyeres and decided to launch my own collection. There was no way for the Japanese to let me do both at the same time.FilepMotwary:You are one of the few existing designers that have a very “feminine” way to see women and a rather “masculine” vision for the men you design. Can you separate in words, the woman and the man, the hero and heroine of Gaspard Yurkievich? GaspardYurkievich: No! The mood is the same for man or woman. I redefine the couture heritage and what is considered sexy. In a contemporary context, what is sexy for a girl is not the same for a boy. I love the man and woman. I am happy you ask this question because it’s true in a way that when we launch the men’s collection we try to make it look masculine, having the women’s collection as our vision. Definitely though “Ken and Barbie” are not what we have in mind.FilepMotwary:What are your origins? GaspardYurkievch: Well it’s a big mixture. I was born in Paris, my parents were born in Argentina a place I visited only once in my life. My grandparents from my father’s side were Jewish immigrants from Poland. My grandparents from my mother’s side were Italian and French Basque Catholics, as well immigrants…I speak French and Spanish, I am not Jewish, not a Catholic, French or Argentinean but at the same time, I am all of the above! FilepMotwary:You have your own way of presenting your work. Also, you are not afraid to collaborate with different professionals in order to give a new edge every time you present your collection. What is the aim, in terms of “result”, working with different individuals that do not really belong in your studio team? GaspardYurkievich: Its “LA CERISE SUR LE GATEAU”. In general, I have the desire to work with this musician, artist, architect (most of them are my friends). It’s an extension of the emotion I try to express with my work in a ten minutes long fashion show, which in other terms would need a ten day lasting presentation. But this has to be a natural desire. It only happens at the right time and it’s so nice to share this feeling with other people.FilepMotwary: Are you “strict” when magazines or stylists ask your clothes for their fashion stories? GaspardYurkievich: I have many lines and behind each there is a different target. I am more clever than strict and not stupidly snobbish. In collaboration with my IN-HOUSE PR, we try working and respecting everyone in the best way we can: a new area for my communication, starts internalizing the press.FilepMotwary: There was a revival of the “waist” during the women SS 2008 collections. Why do you think the designers emphasized so much on the waist? I have a feeling that we will be seeing the trend quite a lot in the future, no? GaspardYurkievich : Yes, but it’s going very slowly. I already did it several times in my collections and although the press loves it, it proved to be a low sale trend. In my last show, there was a very short skirt with a very graphic construction. It’s all about femininity these days and the emphasis on the waist is such a sexy element.FilepMotwary: Festival D’Hyeres is how your name became more known internationally back in the late 1990’s. Can you share you memories for the years you won the first prize and also how did it help you pushing your work forward? GaspardYurkievich : It was back in 1997. At the time Hyeres was more a national establishment than an International “RENOMEE”, yet very professional. Martine Sitbon, Marc Ascoli and Hussein Chalayan were in the Jury. There was nor international press but it helped me to gain the courage starting my own business with my brother and my boyfriend. I was only 25 years old. FilepMotwary: How important is Festival D’Hyeres or any other Festival that supports young designers today? GaspardYurkievich: Today, the FESTIVAL D’ HYERES gives a big visibility by the press, professional and financial back up. It is huge giving the young people the opportunity to show their work under high standard situations. I consider it a the best of it’s kind and very unique. FilepMotwary: Do you think that fashion moves faster today than it did ten years before? GaspardYurkievich : Yes, come on!! There is the internet, it’s all more crazy and exciting. Young people are much less naïve. It’s sometimes a bit sad because accidental moments of grace have now become rarer but yet now everything is so accessible. What is also interesting is that one can show his work and express himself more easily than before. FilepMotwary: Who is the most influential person in your life and why? GaspardYurkievich : The artist/photographer and family friend BERNARD FAUCON; He is the most singular and free person I know. Also, Guido, my boyfriend, with whom my day life at the studio or at home, in a way feeds me working and making choices.FilepMotwary: Now, a bit of nostalgia…How were you as a child. What are your memories? GaspardYurkievich : I am the youngest of three children with a big age difference. I was a very happy child, loved to sing and dance, drawing. I was never bored and but also a very curious kid. In our house there were books and paintings on the walls. My father was a poet and by the age of five, I was conscious enough to know my Jewish origins and who Louise Brooks was… FilepMotwary: Why did you choose fashion as your profession? GaspardYurkievich:I chose fashion because glamour helped me be a dreamer when I was a child. I had the Golden Hollywood era education at home. I created my own culture mixed with the Pop culture. But, I grew up in Paris, and Fashion is the myth of this city. It’s own fairytale.FilepMotwary: Why do you think so many young people want to be involved in fashion these days? GaspardYurkievich:Because fashion is the first way to express yourself and the only way to rebellion. FilepMotwary: Your future plans? GaspardYurkievich: In 2008 I will focus on my e-shop, launching the men’s shoes collection, a co-branding bag LA BAGAGERIE called “BAGGY”. Also, I am celebrating my 10TH anniversary as a brand. At the same time I am preparing the set design and costumes for a concert which is a surprise and also a gallery exhibition in Paris, but it’s still under discussion. I’ll let you knowcLICK ON gASPARD.A big THANK YOU to YOANN BERDAH for the wonderful images. Thank you Virginie Bergeron, PR at Gaspard Yurkievich.
